Kandy – The Heartbeat of Sri Lanka’s Hills

Kandy – The Heartbeat of Sri Lanka’s Hills
Kandy is a hill town with heart — a mix of sacred temples, colonial buildings, mountain views, and local charm. Once the last stronghold of the Sri Lankan kings, today it’s the cultural capital of the country. From Buddhist relics to botanical gardens, traditional dance performances to spicy curries, Kandy offers a quiet but rich experience. It’s where modern Sri Lanka bows gently to its past. Whether you’re traveling from Colombo by train or winding up through tea country, Kandy is a great place to slow down, explore deeply, and understand Sri Lanka’s soul.

About Kandy

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Kandy is located in the Central Province of Sri Lanka, about 115 km from Colombo. It’s nestled in a valley surrounded by lush hills and sits at an altitude of around 500 meters. The town curves around Kandy Lake, with old buildings, temples, shops, and homes climbing the hillsides.

It’s one of the most visited cities in Sri Lanka — but it doesn’t feel rushed. Kandy is quieter than the coastal cities, yet has enough history and activity to keep travelers engaged for several days.

The city is particularly significant in Buddhist culture. It is home to the Temple of the Tooth Relic (Sri Dalada Maligawa), one of the most sacred places for Buddhists around the world.

History of Kandy

Kandy was the last capital of the Sinhala kings, resisting European colonial powers for centuries. The Kingdom of Kandy survived Portuguese and Dutch attempts at invasion, finally falling to the British in 1815.

During its rule, Kandy developed a distinct culture of its own — a mix of art, dance, architecture, and religion that continues to define it today. The Temple of the Tooth, built in the 17th century, became the spiritual center of the kingdom.

Colonial influence remains in the architecture, with churches, railway stations, and bungalows that stand side-by-side with temples and shrines. Today, Kandy is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, protected for its cultural and historical significance.

Top Places to Visit in Kandy

  1. Temple of the Tooth (Sri Dalada Maligawa)
    This temple houses the sacred relic of Buddha’s tooth, kept in a gold casket inside the shrine. It’s visited daily by worshippers and tourists alike. Don’t miss the evening ceremony with drums and offerings.
    Location: Kandy Lake Road, central Kandy

  2. Kandy Lake
    A man-made lake built in 1807 by King Sri Wickrama Rajasinghe. It’s perfect for a morning walk or sunset stroll. You’ll see locals feeding fish or relaxing on benches.
    Tip: Walk the full circle (around 3.5 km)

  3. Bahirawakanda Vihara Buddha Statue
    A massive white Buddha statue overlooking the city. Climb the stairs for panoramic views of Kandy’s rooftops and green hills.
    Entry: Small fee at the gate

  4. Royal Botanical Gardens – Peradeniya
    One of Asia’s best botanical gardens, home to over 4,000 plant species including orchids, palms, and medicinal herbs.
    Location: 5.5 km west of Kandy

  5. Kandy Viewpoint
    For postcard-worthy views of the lake and temple, head to this ridge near Rajapihilla Mawatha. Ideal at sunset or dawn.
    You can walk or take a tuk-tuk

  6. Udawattakele Forest Reserve
    A peaceful forest just above the temple area. You’ll find birds, monkeys, and shady trails once used by royal families.
    Entry: Around LKR 600 for foreigners

  7. Kandyan Cultural Centre
    Watch traditional dance performances with costumes, drumming, and fire-walking. Shows are held daily in the evening.
    Duration: About 1 hour

Things to Do in Kandy

  1. Take a walk around Kandy Lake – Peaceful and scenic, ideal for people-watching.

  2. Attend the Evening Puja at the Temple of the Tooth – A powerful spiritual ceremony with rhythmic drums.

  3. Explore the local markets – Head to Kandy Central Market for fruits, spices, teas, and souvenirs.

  4. Ride the scenic train to or from Kandy – The Kandy to Ella route is one of the world’s most beautiful train journeys.

  5. Visit a tea estate nearby – Learn how Ceylon tea is made and try fresh brews.

  6. Watch a Kandyan dance show – Colorful, intense, and deeply symbolic.

  7. Try an Ayurvedic spa treatment – Offered in small wellness centers across the city.

What to Eat in Kandy

Kandy offers a mix of local Sri Lankan meals and international options. You’ll find both street food and sit-down restaurants.

  1. Kottu Roti – Chopped flatbread mixed with vegetables, egg or meat, and spicy sauce.

  2. Rice and Curry – A typical meal with rice and 3–5 small curry portions (lentils, jackfruit, fish, or chicken).

  3. Hoppers (Appa) – Bowl-shaped pancakes, sometimes with egg in the middle.

  4. String Hoppers (Idiyappam) – Steamed rice noodle bundles served with dhal and coconut sambal.

  5. Pol Sambol – Spicy coconut chutney made with chili and lime.

  6. Tea and Sweets – Try local tea, jaggery, or milk toffee (kiri toffee) for snacks.

Recommended Places to Eat:

  • Balaji Dosai – For South Indian vegetarian meals.

  • Slightly Chilled Lounge – Great view and mix of Western and Sri Lankan dishes.

  • White House Restaurant – Local buffet and bakery in central Kandy.

Where to Stay

  1. Budget

    • Clock Inn Kandy – Clean dorms and private rooms.

    • Kandy City Hostel – Social vibe, affordable beds.

  2. Mid-Range

    • Nature Walk Resort – Great views, close to the temple.

    • Sevana City Hotel – Clean, good service, central location.

  3. Luxury

    • Theva Residency – Scenic hilltop boutique hotel.

    • Amaya Hills – Upscale resort with a pool and mountain views.

Tip: Book early during Esala Perahera Festival season (July/August) — the city fills up quickly.

Hidden Gems

  1. Degaldoruwa Cave Temple – Less visited temple with 18th-century frescoes and quiet surroundings.

  2. Wales Park – A small hilltop park with cannons and city views, often overlooked by tourists.

  3. Gadaladeniya and Lankatilaka Temples – Historic stone temples about 10 km from Kandy, combining Hindu and Buddhist elements.

  4. Cultural Hallways inside the Temple of the Tooth – Lesser-known museum sections with old caskets, palm-leaf manuscripts, and royal objects.

  5. Nilambe Meditation Centre – A silent retreat 15 km outside Kandy for those looking to unplug and reflect.

Travel Tips

  • Best Time to Visit: December to April (dry season). July–August is festival season but can be crowded.

  • Dress Modestly: Especially when visiting temples — no sleeveless tops or shorts.

  • Take Your Shoes Off: At all temples and sacred sites.

  • Tuk-Tuk Rates: Always agree on a price before the ride or use PickMe app.

  • Stay Near the Lake: If possible, choose accommodation within walking distance of the lake.

  • Hydrate: Kandy can be humid, especially in the rainy season.

Local Phrases

  • “Ayubowan” – Traditional Sri Lankan greeting (means “May you live long”)

  • “Istuti” – Thank you

  • “Kohomada?” – How are you?

  • “Mata meka kemati” – I like this

  • “Eka kiyada?” – How much is that?

  • “Hari hondai” – Very good

Using even a few of these Sinhalese phrases will earn you smiles from locals.

How to Reach Kandy

  • By Train:

    • From Colombo Fort to Kandy (about 2.5 to 3 hours). The most scenic option, especially in observation class.

  • By Bus:

    • Regular buses from Colombo, Dambulla, and Nuwara Eliya. Inexpensive and frequent.

  • By Taxi/Private Car:

    • Comfortable for families or groups. Takes around 3.5 hours from Colombo.

  • By Air:

    • Nearest airport: Bandaranaike International Airport (Colombo), then drive/train to Kandy.

Final Thoughts

Kandy is not loud — it doesn’t need to be. It speaks through temple bells, misty mornings, and gentle lake ripples. It’s where history lives in the present and culture walks alongside you.

You might come to Kandy for a night and end up staying longer — not because it demands it, but because it grows on you. From temple courtyards to tea-scented mornings, from sacred relics to street food stalls, Kandy offers a kind of calm that’s rare in today’s travel world.

If you're looking for something more than just beach days or sightseeing tours, Kandy gives you a chance to slow down and connect — with the land, the people, and something timeless.

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